Why apricots do not bear fruit
Often, gardeners are faced with such a problem that a healthy, full of strength apricot does not produce a crop. Outwardly, there are no signs of any diseases on the tree, it is actively growing the crown, but for some reason there are no fruits. What is the reason for this behavior of the apricot and how to help it enter fruiting, experienced experts know. There may be several reasons for the lack of a crop, depending on the specific situation.
Apricot drops the ovary
Apricot blooms profusely and even an ovary is tied. However, in the near future, it crumbles, and only leaves remain on the branches. It is clear that in this case the harvest cannot be expected. But in this way the tree gives a distress signal that it has an acute lack of nutrients. It is simply trying to survive, even to the detriment of the future harvest. A similar situation occurs in the case of insufficient glaze or none at all.
To avoid dropping the ovary, it is necessary to regularly water and feed the apricot throughout the growing season, combining these two measures:
- The first watering should be done before flowering, especially in dry weather. At the same time, the tree must be fed with nitrogen fertilizers (urea, organic matter).
- The second nitrogen fertilization and watering - two weeks after the end of flowering.
- The next watering and fertilization of the apricot is best done a month after the formation of the ovary, when the fruits have already formed and begin to ripen. Now you need drugs that contain not only nitrogen, but also potassium with phosphorus.
- The fourth top dressing with watering must be done after harvest, when flower buds of the next year are laid on the branches. Use only phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, the tree does not need nitrogen now.
It is not recommended to feed the apricot directly during flowering. He does not like this and the ovary may not be at all.
Additional watering is necessary if the summer is hot and dry. The last time the apricot is watered before wintering, such watering is called moisture-charging.
Apricot drops flowers
If a tree blooms profusely, but then crumbles without even forming an ovary, the reason for this phenomenon may be a lack of pollination. Apricots are mostly self-fertile trees and need pollinators, so it is recommended to plant at least two different varieties on the site.
For pollination, branches of other varieties can be grafted into the crown of an apricot.
In the case when the dropping of inflorescences occurred after a nightly cold snap, there is no need to look for the reason. The heat-loving apricot, which blooms early, simply could not bear the low temperatures. Unfortunately, this year it is no longer possible to help the tree, but it is possible to postpone flowering next spring by 2 weeks later if you cut the young shoots by half in June. They form new branches that will bloom later.
I have been blooming for about 4-5 years, but apricot does not bear fruit. I already doubted whether it is an apricot. But maybe the climate is not the same, the groundwater is close, or you need another apricot for fertilization? And what is stagnant - that over the years the seedling has already grown up enough - and there is a lot of growth in the place of the trunk, that is, the growth moves away from the apricot itself, and not the lateral roots. But the apricot does not seem to have overgrowth ?? Perhaps di these, at least half a meter, should be planted for example on cherry plum ?? I read recently that it can be grafted onto it from plums and apricots, to cherries and cherries.My cherry plum is old - but cut off, that is, there is a lot of space for vaccination ?? Then the new new grafted apricot will be 5 meters away from this already planted apricot ?! Although I read a couple of minutes ago - that for pollination it is enough to graft a branch of a different variety - then can this shoot be grafted on the same apricot, if it is like a wild game and does not retain the properties of the variety that was planted?
Based on what I have read about apricots, it is clear that self-fertile are Asian fruits, and self-fertile are European. There are all conditions for me to have the last option - why then there are no fruits ?? But even self-infertile ovaries should produce a very small amount. It is already blooming - as I understand it, I can buy a new seedling of a different kind of apricot, so that it blooms this spring, if possible, because it blooms for a week or two. And in this way I can achieve some kind of cross-pollination? !!
It is also clear that the apricot blooms the very first because frost, cold weather, and the lack of natural sawdusting damage the flowering. Therefore, even the idea of planting a peach near it is also not optimal - for even a more thermophilic peach blooms later than an apricot, therefore, the synchronization of flowering and, accordingly, pollination will not work.
But it is not clear at the expense of the growth from the root - it is obvious that this is a wild game (pole) because it can be seen from it and its buds that this is a different variety (younger and greenish-gray shoots). It is obvious to graft on it, but is it possible to cut off its ground part and root it using such means as root, etc. ??
Although the color of this wild growth is still interesting, if it ever will be, can it solve the problem of cross-pollination?
It would be nice to get advice from gardeners!
I was hoping for advice all the same and I hope.
Now - after buying a zoned self-fertile apricot variety,
which will bloom perhaps next year - I have only one task.
My "old" apricot is blooming - bees fly "over the apricot" like wild ones - as well as near the cherry plum, which is 7-9 meters away. But if the fruit is self-fruitless, then it will bloom and will be like in previous years, all the more so - the board has passed and the apricot flowers are sufficiently frozen.
What can I do now - can I somehow manually pollinate - from one apricot flower to another, or, for example, from a cherry plum flower? Or do they hope that mutual pollination is possible, for example, from an apple, plum or cherry-plum, as I was told in the market, which I hardly believe? And the distance of 10 m is quite large and the leash cherry plum is now beginning to bloom too.
To pollinate an apricot, one more apricot is needed, while they must match in terms of variety and flowering time. Cherry plum is not suitable for this. And there is no point in grafting a branch from an apricot that does not bear fruit, because a young tree will also not set fruit. It is necessary to plant a self-fertile variety. If your old apricot and the new one have the same flowering and variety, pollination will occur.
I've written so much - but now it's a different problem.
The apricot bloomed, one day the bees flew, the dodge started, and the color faded in a couple of days (brown mess) and obviously nothing will come of it.
But the worse is that the leaves do not bloom, only half, some rudiments of distae appear and it is unlikely to bloom, or they will be immature. Other branches or parts of them are generally bare.
As I already wrote - there was gum, there are cracks or formation, so I suppose the tree may not survive this season and next winter.
What can be done to somehow awaken the tree before it's too late. What kind of additives should I use at the root on some forum before I read it? Can the soil be remade?
I also cut off the shoots - although the two largest shoots (2-3 years old) left, which were covered with very green leaves -
from them something can be? Or is it a wild (pole)?
By the way - I tried to plant cuttings (pieces) received from the seller of seedlings, but he himself said that they began to wake up,
this is obviously of little use. And he grafted on a tree that did not bear fruit, and not from such a tree. I don't think I should
to graft a self-fertile variety, it is necessary to inoculate a different variety so that cross-pollination takes place if my old apricot is self-fertile. And if the varieties are the same, then pollination will not happen - after all, this does not happen from one tree, one variety in case of self-infertility.
To help the apricot start growing faster, it can be fed with nitrogen-containing fertilizers. Regarding the overgrowth, it won't make a "real" apricot, it's just wild. But I rarely saw that the apricot gave root shoots. Maybe it's your seedlings?
It has been more than a month since the leaves have begun to bloom, and only 5% of the leaves have blossomed somewhere. They are virtually nonexistent.
That is, this year, little will help, has it dried up? If any nitrogen fertilization is possible, then how and in what quantity.
As for the growth, it seems to grow from the trunk of the apricot, that is, from the ground, but not from the lateral branches.
Well, completely green, although I deleted most of it, I left two branches.
By the way, can I trim some branches of this already dried apricot? I have not pruned since the purchase of the seedling,
therefore it has grown enough.
Or this apricot, if it has a dozen leaves on the upper tips of some branches,
will not be able to dissolve the leaves even for the next year?
I would still like to hear the opinion of gardeners who have encountered such cases in practice!
Although I do not think that the reason for this state of the tree is the lack of pruning,
or, for example, the fact that at the beginning of April in three places I tried to plant circumcised
cuttings from another apricot tree (which had already begun to swell, therefore it was already a belated procedure).
Your tree is definitely dying and it is no longer possible to save it. What is the point of grafting cuttings or buds on a diseased tree? The tree was infected with disease or was improperly planted, resulting in its death. Remove the plant completely. Treat the soil with a fungicide, apply fertilizer and in the fall it will be possible to plant an apple or pear seedling in this place, you can plant a quince. Stone fruits cannot be planted within a radius of 3 meters, they will also die or will not bear fruit.
This is how it comes out - just raised the topic here that blooms and does not bear fruit,
bloomed this year - the flower died, and the leaves did not even bloom.
and all at once - as I read on another resource, this is apoplexy -
and this is almost everywhere, in Ukraine this year.
And there I also read the recommendation - what to plant
from a stone, and then not replanting then the tree will be resistant to adverse conditions -
but then it will be wild? Inoculate chtoli on him.
And by the way - I have planted a local zoned variety for no more than a month and a half,
than 3m from the dried one.
At the expense of fertilizers, I found such micro-packages as Master +, Radifarm on the garden market,
but there is no more than 10-15% nitrogen. And they have specific tasks when used in horticulture.
Still there are more dimensional options like urea, nitrate, ammonium ??
And I want to write again - I did not graft on an already dead tree,
it was before flowering, but after a week or two the tree was already
signs of drying and death of the tree appeared.