We study violet diseases and methods of their treatment
Uzambara violets, so beloved by many flower growers of our country, like other indoor plants, unfortunately, are susceptible to attacks by pests, suffer from improper care and are quite difficult to tolerate diseases of a fungal, bacterial and viral nature.
In order not to lose the plants decorating the windowsill, it is important to recognize the problem as early as possible. Descriptions of diseases of violets, their photographs and treatment that can save Saintpaulia from death, will help you quickly navigate the situation, take care of plants and return health and beauty to the outlets.
Read also the article: Intavir - instructions for use for strawberries!
Why don't violets bloom at home?
- improper care of indoor plants;
- in pests that have settled on violets or in the soil;
- in diseases of violets, which have a different nature and danger to plants.
Pets of inexperienced beginners most often suffer from illiterately organized care. Especially soon, traces of improper watering, lack of lighting and fertilization of violets become visible on the foliage.
With a lack of light, new generations of foliage look dimmer and smaller compared to old ones. The petioles are lengthened, the edges of the leaf plates are bent upward. The plant quickly bounces back if it is placed on a lighted windowsill, protected from drafts.
One of the reasons why violets do not bloom at home may be excessive acidity or salinity of the soil, improper selection of the composition of the soil. In this case, not only the formation of peduncles slows down or completely stops, but leaf twisting is observed. Similar symptoms can be seen with an imbalance in the mineral composition, for example, with a lack of nitrogen, or with excessive watering.
Uzambara violets are unusually sensitive not only to the amount of moisture entering the soil, but also to its temperature.
Light spots on the leaf plates seem to remind a florist how to water violets correctly. Such a plant reaction signals excessively cold water or a burn caused by sun exposure to the wet leaf surface. That is why experienced flower growers recommend using only warm water, and watering Saintpaulias only in the evening, when the likelihood of a burn is minimal.
Violet diseases: leaf and root rot
The greatest risk of stalk rotting of violets is when dividing plants, cutting and replanting the apical part of the rosette or separating the children. The cause of this problem can be both pests and excess watering after a long period of relative dryness of the soil. Putrefactive bacteria settle on damaged tissues especially quickly, and damage to the roots and stem becomes the most destructive.
The symptoms of this violet disease can be considered:
- loss of leaf turgor;
- loss of the natural color of the rosette;
- wilting of petioles and leaf plates.
With the comprehensive nature of the violet disease, as in the photograph, treatment can only be urgent and cardinal. The damaged tissue is removed, the saintpaulia is rooted with a healthy leaf that can give new rosettes.
Very young rosettes, babies and rooted leaves are susceptible to brown rot. In the latter case, the stem at the base becomes brownish-brown, softens and becomes thinner.On the soil under the outlet, whitish mycelium threads are found. And if you do not take urgent measures, the violet disease spreads to neighboring plants.
As a preventive measure, rooted plants are treated with a contact fungicide, do not deepen, and then the area under the stem is irrigated with phytosporin or a chemical similar in effect.
Withering and dull color of the leaves is also observed with the development of root rot. When plants are removed from the soil, softened brownish roots are found, affected by the spores of a harmful fungus, which quickly multiply and spread in a humid environment. At the same time, the low acidity of the soil contributes to the development of an infection so dangerous for Saintpaulias.
One of the effective measures to combat this violet disease can be considered to reduce the frequency of watering. While plants rarely get moisture, portions should be plentiful. For the prevention and treatment of violet disease, as in the photo, root treatment is used phytosporin... You can reduce the risk of spread by using a soil that does not retain moisture too well.
Gray rot also leads to liquefaction and weakening of the green parts of the plant, while a gray fluffy bloom is clearly visible on the affected surface. All leaves with signs of violet disease, as well as dead leaf blades and cuttings are removed, preventing them from falling to the ground. To reduce the risk of infection during the cool season, it is extremely important:
- avoid excessive humidity;
- refuse to spray outlets;
- water the violets correctly, avoiding stagnant moisture and condensation.
Of the chemicals for the treatment of outlets and their protection, quick and foundation are chosen.
Powdery mildew on Saintpaulias
One of the most common diseases caused by harmful fungi also affects uzambara violets. Outwardly, the manifestation of this disease of violets resembles flour scattered over leaf plates and corollas of flowers, and infection of saintpaulias occurs with the help of fungal spores in the soil.
The most susceptible to the disease are violets, weakened after transplantation, recently faded specimens, young and, conversely, old, plants.
As a preventive measure, sockets are protected from temperature fluctuations, violets are watered correctly and top dressing is used. If the infection does occur, Saintpaulia needs fungicide treatment.
Fusarium as a disease of violets
The most dangerous disease for violets first affects the roots of the plant, which rot and soften, and then the infection spreads through the vessels to the stem, petioles and leaf plates of the lower leaves. With a disease at this stage, most of the old foliage in the lower level withers, the stems and edges become watery, and then completely die off.
The rapid death of the plant is facilitated by its weakening after flowering, the lack of fertilizer for the violets, as well as the temperature below 16 ° C.
The fight against fusarium is to urgently remove the diseased plant from the windowsill, which contains other violets. It is best to destroy the affected specimen together with the soil, and disinfect the pot with copper sulfate or an available fungicide. As a preventive measure, they establish an irrigation regime, and also in this case, correctly water the violets with a solution of phytosporin. This procedure is carried out monthly.
Late blight of Saintpaulias rosettes
Late blight on Saintpaulia plants appears in the form of brown, drying spots on the leaves. As the disease progresses on violets, such spots spread, the affected tissue undergoes necrosis, and the rosette withers. It is impossible to restore the elasticity of the foliage even after watering.
If the apical part of the rosette is intact, it can be cut off and rooting can be attempted by pretreating with an antifungal agent and removing any tissue affected by the disease. A healthy cut should have a light green tint. For rooting, you can take healthy leaves.
The rest of the outlet is destroyed, all violets adjacent to the diseased specimen are subjected to preventive treatment.
Bronze and leaf spot viruses
Diseases of a viral nature change the appearance of leaf plates, tissue supply and plant development. These diseases can be the reason why violets do not bloom at home, and then completely stop developing.
Bronze virus, for example, results in ugly discolored leaves. Such plants sometimes turn out to be unviable and are destroyed. And pests found in apartments can spread the disease of violets. In this case, these are thrips.
Pests on plants of uzambar violets
Pests affecting Saintpaulia can cause serious harm to indoor crops, since both green parts of plants and roots fall into their sphere of interest. In addition, they spread the most famous violet diseases.
Mites at home become the most dangerous pests of indoor plants. On violets, cyclamen mites are especially common and harmful, the infection with which at the initial stages is practically invisible. Only when new leaves appear, it becomes obvious that the rosette is inhabited by microscopic insects, leading to the cessation of the growth of Saintpaulia, the refusal of the violet to bloom at home, crushing and curling of the leaves in the center of the rosette.
The fight against the pest is carried out using phytoverm or other insecticides, after isolating the diseased plant.
No less insidious enemy of violets is nematode... From the soil, the worms penetrate the root system of plants and the vessels that feed the outlet. They suck out juices, poison the plant with toxins and disrupt tissue supply. As a result, the violet looks weakened, refuses to bloom, grows poorly. On the green part of the plant, nematode damage looks like a thickening of the stem, crushing and changing the shape of the foliage, and the mass formation of children.
At the same time, nodes and vesicular thickenings are clearly visible on the roots, where worm cysts develop.
It is reasonable to part with such a violet, but if you want to propagate a rare variety, in no case should you take leaves from the lower tiers, where nematodes may already live. The affected plant is destroyed along with the soil. The pallet, pot and planter are thoroughly disinfected.
Aphids are found most easily by sticky secretions on the foliage and by the insects themselves on the back of the leaves and on the petioles at their base. You can wash off the pest with soapy water, trying not to overmoisten the soil, as well as with Antitlin, phytoverm or tobacco dust.
Thrips that move easily from plant to plant are the most dangerous for the home-kept Saintpaulias. In addition, a pest that feeds on plant juices multiplies rapidly and is able to transfer pathogens of all kinds of violet diseases to sockets. You can destroy thrips using Aktara or another solution of a similar drug. During processing, the earthen lump is necessarily affected, and, in addition, the flower stalks are cut off in order to deprive the pest of food - Saintpaulia pollen.
The presence of mealybugs produces white flakes on the leaves, stems and petioles where they join the stem. In the soil coma of the affected plant, whitish lumps are noticeable. These are places of accumulation of worms that feed on plant juices. The infected violet withers quickly, the leaves become dull, yellowish.
If you do not take urgent measures, not only the sick violet may die, but also neighboring sockets may suffer. Treatment is carried out by watering violets with Mospilan or Regent, the wilted parts must be removed and destroyed.
Sciarids are well known to all gardeners who grow indoor crops. Small black flies above the pots are also dangerous because they feed on Saintpaulias juices, and in the form of larvae can cause serious damage to the underground parts of plants.
The fight against the pest of Saintpaulias consists in shedding soil with a systemic insecticide, as well as in establishing plant care. In this case, more than ever, proper watering of violets is important, since excess moisture in the soil contributes to the reproduction and activation of harmful insects.
Read also the article: streptocarpus care and cultivation from seeds!
Protective preventive measures against diseases of violets and their pests
It is possible to reduce the risk of infection of uzambar violets with dangerous diseases of this culture and to protect pets from attack by pests by adhering to simple safety rules and establishing prevention.
As experienced florists testify, the greatest danger to the collection is presented by new rosettes purchased in a greenhouse or store. Such plants are never placed next to existing violets until 3-4 weeks have passed. Such quarantine is necessary to monitor the violet and its acclimatization.
If the plant has become flowering, it is better to remove the peduncles. This will reduce the risk of infection with thrips. Before planting, be sure to disinfect not only the soil, but also the pots. From the first day, plants are provided with acceptable lighting, nutrition and watering conditions. We must not forget about the use and fertilization for violets, especially necessary after flowering, when the plant is depleted.
On this topic:violet how to care to bloom?
You just need to adjust the watering, a lot of moisture, and your violets have weak roots. Better yet, transplant into looser soil.
Hello! Can you tell me what's wrong with the violet?
It looks like thrips. Separate the violet for quarantine, rinse the leaves under the tap, and then treat with Aktara. Repeat the treatment after 2 weeks.
Hello! What could it be ?
Please help identify the violet disease
If you are talking about white spots, then it looks like powdery mildew. Treat the violet with a fungicide.
Processed with Topaz. Didn't help at all. With the appearance of these spots, the leaf began to lose turgor, the middle thickens, and the leaf twists.
Hello! I have such a question, rooting a violet leaf in the ground. I did not notice how it sprouted, because the sprout sprouted under the leaf and therefore stretched out initially. Tell me, what should I do now to form a normal outlet from what is at the moment?
Cover the stem with some substrate and provide good lighting. I would even fall asleep until the second sheet. The violet itself should align, well, do not cut it.
Hello. Violets bloomed so luxuriantly, and for a month now the problem is that the bud dries up at the beginning of flowering, And some simply do not bloom, Watering is matte, no drafts, diffused light, not hot, I really look forward to your help.
The buds of violets dry up if the air is too dry, from cold and drafts, excess fertilizers, or when pests appear. And it also seemed to me that spots are visible on the leaves and even there are holes in places. It will not hurt to treat the flowers with fungicides.
What is wrong with my violet ... the leaves have become light ... and does not bloom ... I do not see insects ... can there be in the soil ???
This can happen for a number of reasons: an overdose of fertilizers or, conversely, a lack of nutrients, a lack of lighting, the appearance of a cyclamen tick.
I bought new varieties of children. After 3-4 weeks, the lower leaves began to rot, and in my adult violets, the lower leaves began to rot, starting from the leaf itself (they turn brown and wither), what should I do?
It is difficult to say without a photo whether it can be fusarium or vascular bacteriosis. But both of these diseases develop quickly, but it is not always possible to save flowers. Many even recommend discarding the plants for Fusarium disease so that they do not infect others. But you can try: quarantine, treat Fitolavin twice with a break of a week. After another week, pour Fitosporin.
Hello, help to determine what is happening with the violet baby, leaves deteriorate, dry. I cut off the dried, but everything continues. In the center of the outlet, small leaves begin to grow, 1 grows, and 2 others also turn black and dry, is it possible to save?
Try transplanting into new soil and treating it with a fungicide. But this disease is difficult to cure. My violet also had such leaves, alas, nothing helped. Maybe there is still a healthy one and you can try to root it to preserve the species.
Hello, tell me, please, what to do. White specks appeared on a violet leaf, and midges began to fly. It can be interconnected with each other and how to deal with it
In my opinion, these white spots are gnats, just grown up. With me, at least, it was first, too, on violet, and now on royal pelargonium. Try insecticide and replant.
I can share my experience, though not always successful. Unfortunately, I did not save Violet, even BI-58 did not help. Its smell, of course, is simply disgusting, it is categorically impossible to process it in the house, even the flowers "smell" for a long time. But pelargonium is still alive. I decided not to treat it with anything: just periodically, when the midges reappear, I wash it with soapy water, brushing them off with an old toothbrush. I spilled the soil with potassium permanganate.
Hello. Can you please tell me what's wrong with the violet and how to cure it? The violet is young, grown by me from a leaf, has recently begun to bloom. The bush looks healthy, but some of the lower leaves drooped, losing turgor. I deleted them. On some leaves, depressed spots began to appear, growing over time. Then the leaf goes down and jumpers appear on the cuttings. I delete these leaves, new ones appear with the same problem.
More like pest bites. Most likely, this is a spider mite. Treat violet 2-3 times with a fungicide (for example, Acarin or similar) with a week break between treatments. Why is your violet so elongated? The rosette rises completely above the pot, and the petioles are too long. Maybe she lacks light? In order for the outlet to become squat and lush again, you can “blow off your head” and re-root it. How to do this is described in detail here https://myvilla.cosmetius.com/en/staraya-fialka-omolozhenie/.
Olga, thanks for the quick response. It's bad if the tick, I read that it cannot be removed completely. I examined the leaves through a magnifying glass, but saw nothing and there was no cobweb. If I take leaves from a bush for propagation, won't they also be with a tick? There is enough light (the illumination was calculated according to the recommendations of experienced violet experts). The leaves that I bought were also long-stemmed. This is a miniature Perk Up bush trailer. I managed to release only one branch and such a misfortune happened, and even the lower diseased leaves I pinched. Here is the mother of this baby at a time before flowering (a larger bush).
She's just gorgeous! As for the leaves, you can try washing them in soapy water before rooting. If anyone is there, he must leave. I have already tried several times to breed violets, but, alas, they are not friends with me.
Olga, thanks for the advice, I hope we can save the violet, it blooms very nicely. I started to deal with violets by accident, when I first saw the trailers. I have not even heard of such violets. She grew 15 varieties from leaves (and there were a lot of children - they are fertile). As long as there was enough time to keep an eye on them, they grew well, as they began to fail, they began to disappear one by one, you almost overlook and perish. Now there are only 6 species left. Olga, I like your site, from time to time I looked at you, only on dacha issues, now I will visit you even more often.I am very impressed by your quick answers, it turns out like a dialogue in the present tense, i.e. the site is live. On many sites there is a big problem with this, sometimes they do not answer at all or the comment is not saved. It is not clear why they suggest leaving comments, asking questions. You don't even want to visit such sites, because there are others, like yours, who respect their readers. I understand that many people write, but it is necessary to answer or not to offer to comment. Thank you for your participation. In the photo blooming Perk Up. All the best to you.
A very lush violet with beautiful large flowers! Thank you for the kind words, I try :) I am pleased when there is something to help or share. It is a pity that it does not always work out and sometimes it is difficult to find an answer to some questions. But often the guests of the site communicate with each other and help each other, sharing their experience. It seems to me that it should be so. Come in, we will always be glad!
I returned from vacation, but what about the flower. What is it, why?
If the leaves are still hard, the violet may have frozen over. If they have lost turgor, this may be a sign of a disease. Treat with a fungicide such as Fitosporin.
Presented with a sheet of Water. I didn't look right away, but after three weeks I saw spots and some kind of golden wire-like hairs up to 5 cm (in the photo to the left of the edge of the sheet above). Who met with such an infection, please respond, help !!!
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Is it just me such a "detailed answer" or is there a discussion within the club? Thank you for your attention !!!
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Hello. Please tell me what kind of attack. In the center of the rosette near the violet, the leaves grow deformed. It is in the center. How to treat?
Hello1 Tell me, please, what is the problem and what to do about it?
The leaves of the first violet remained dense, the turgor did not disappear, but a white pattern just appeared? It can be either spore or viral spotting. You don't need to do anything, besides viral diseases are not cured. As for the second violet, the twisted leaves, especially in the center of the rosette, most often indicate a cyclamen mite. Treat it with an insecticide such as Agravertin.
Good day! At my violets, the leaves began to curl down and are somehow weak, I can not understand what the problem is. I'm new at this . Tell me. thank
There may be several reasons, so you need to carefully analyze everything. The leaves curl, lose their color saturation and turgor, if the air in the room is too dry, below 30%. Since it is not advisable to spray the plants in winter, place a glass of water next to it. The foliage can still spin from an excess of fertilizers, especially nitrogen. If this is the case, then a large number of stepchildren will be an additional confirming factor. Eliminate such dressings, especially since violets do not really need them in the winter season.
Sometimes the foliage folded down indicates an excess of moisture. Do not flood your flowers, and if the soil has turned into a swamp, then it is better to transplant them into fresh soil. Moreover, if the ground does not fit the violets, the leaves can also be deformed.
The most dangerous cause of the problem is pests. Such signs appear when a violet is affected by a cyclamen tick. In addition, the center of the rosette, its young leaves, grow small, and in the lower part of the leaf you can see a kind of dust - these are very small insects. In this case, urgently determine the violets for quarantine so that the pest does not move to neighboring plants. Cut off all the leaves with "dust", and treat the bushes with acaricides, for example, Fitoverm or Neoron.
And here's another - damage of a different kind
hello, can you please tell me what's wrong with my violet? I have quite a few of them, but only one showed these changes
Dry spots indicate a lesion with late blight, rotting areas, respectively, about the presence of putrefactive bacteria. In any case, fungicide treatment is needed. You can try cutting and rooting healthy leaves so as not to completely lose the violet. Cuttings must also be treated in a fungicide solution.
I bought a new violet in the market and she is sick. I didn't see it without glasses. What's with her and how to treat. Help me please.
I think it looks more like pest bite marks. In such spots, bites of cyclamen ticks grow when they drink the juice. In the future, young leaves of the violet begin to spin, and the center of the rosette becomes thick. Ticks are difficult to see as they are very small. Try treating with an acaricide, for example Fitoverm or Akarin.
Violet looks good and blooms. The leaves are not rotten. Regular.
Another photo of the sheet.
Can you please tell me why violets do not open buds? The violet is young, the rosette is powerful, and the buds do not open. I tried to process it with phytoverm, removed all the buds. But new bloom and again the same problem
This can be from too high a temperature and dry air, as well as from a lack of light or increased acidity of the soil. Try changing the ground. Some violet addicts on the forums still claim that watering with the addition of Fitosporin or potassium permanganate helped them.
Hello! It is not clear what about the violets. On some specimens, some spots appeared, as if dry. Burns are excluded, because the violets are in a shaded place. For some reason, there is no way to attach a photo. Is it possible for you to send a photo to the e-mail so that you can look and say what kind of disease it is ??
If the specks are small, it is most likely thrips. Treat with insecticides, alternating between Aktara and Fitoverm. Brown dry spots of a larger size indicate the defeat of late blight. It is not easy to get rid of, it is best to cut off and root the head of the violet if the top of the rosette is not damaged yet. And still treat with a fungicide.
Por las imágenes fotográficas de las violetas se ve muy interesante éste artículo y además muy importante, lástima que nó entiendo nada, Yo sólo hablo y entiendo el idioma español.
Me gustaría que lo tradujeran ya que Yo tengo variedad de violetas y me gustaría saber todo lo relacionado sobre las mismas, gracias
There may be two reasons. Examine these leaflets carefully. If they are paler than the rest and more pubescent, it is a tick. Need an insecticide treatment. But if the leaves do not differ in color and there are no pests on them, the oppression of the growth point is evident. It can be triggered by an excess of light, high temperature, lack of moisture. Adjust the conditions of detention and establish care, and the leaves will level out over time.
Can you please tell me what it is from the violet. Are there any spots on the leaves?
Add a photo, please, so that you can see what's with the violets.
Please tell me! In violets, the lower leaves became like waxy and lighter than the rest
It looks like a lack of nutrients. Try replanting in new soil and starting feeding.