We study violet diseases and methods of their treatment
Uzambara violets, so beloved by many flower growers in our country, like other indoor plants, unfortunately, are susceptible to attacks by pests, suffer from improper care and tolerate fungal, bacterial and viral diseases rather hard.
In order not to lose the plants decorating the windowsill, it is important to recognize the problem as early as possible. Descriptions of diseases of violets, their photographs and treatment that can save Saintpaulia from death, will help you quickly navigate the situation, take care of the plants and return health and beauty to the outlets.
Read also the article: Intavir - instructions for use for strawberries!
Why don't violets bloom at home?
- in improper care of indoor plants;
- in pests that have settled on violets or in the soil;
- in diseases of violets, which have a different nature and danger to plants.
Pets of inexperienced beginners most often suffer precisely from illiterately organized care. Especially soon, traces of improper watering, lack of lighting and fertilization of violets become visible on the foliage.
With a lack of light, new generations of foliage look dimmer and smaller compared to old ones. The petioles are lengthened, the edges of the leaf plates are bent upward. The plant quickly bounces back if placed on a lighted windowsill, protected from drafts.
One of the reasons why violets do not bloom at home may be excessive acidity or salinity of the soil, improper selection of the composition of the soil. In this case, not only the formation of peduncles slows down or completely stops, but leaf twisting is observed. Similar symptoms can be seen with an imbalance in the mineral composition, for example, with a lack of nitrogen, or with excessive watering.
Uzambara violets are unusually sensitive to not only the amount of moisture entering the soil, but also to its temperature.
Light spots on the leaf plates seem to remind a florist how to properly water violets. This reaction of the plant signals excessively cold water or a burn caused by sun exposure to the wet leaf surface. That is why experienced florists recommend using only warm water, and watering Saintpaulias only in the evening, when the likelihood of a burn is minimal.
Violet diseases: leaf and root rot
The greatest risk of stalk rotting of violets is when dividing plants, cutting and replanting the apical part of the rosette or separating children. The cause of this problem can be both pests and excess watering after a long period of relative dryness of the soil. Putrefactive bacteria settle on damaged tissues especially quickly, and damage to the roots and stem becomes the most destructive.
The symptoms of this violet disease can be considered:
- loss of leaf turgor;
- loss of the natural color of the rosette;
- wilting of petioles and leaf plates.
With the comprehensive nature of the violet disease, as in the photograph, treatment can only be urgent and cardinal. The damaged tissue is removed, the saintpaulia is rooted with a healthy leaf that can give new rosettes.
Very young rosettes, babies and rooted leaves are subject to brown rot. In the latter case, the stem at the base becomes brownish-brown, softens and becomes thinner.On the soil, under the outlet, whitish mycelium threads are found. And if you do not take urgent measures, the violet disease spreads to neighboring plants.
As a preventive measure, rooted plants are treated with a contact fungicide, do not deepen, and then irrigate the area under the stem with phytosporin or a chemical similar in effect.
Withering and dull color of the leaves is also observed with the development of root rot. When plants are removed from the soil, softened brownish roots are found, affected by the spores of a harmful fungus, which quickly multiply and spread in a humid environment. At the same time, the low acidity of the soil contributes to the development of an infection so dangerous for Saintpaulias.
One of the effective measures to combat this violet disease can be considered to reduce the frequency of watering. While plants rarely get moisture, portions should be plentiful. For the prevention and treatment of violet disease, as in the photo, root treatment is used phytosporin... You can reduce the risk of spread by using a soil that does not retain moisture too well.
Gray rot also leads to liquefaction and weakening of the green parts of the plant, while a gray fluffy bloom is clearly visible on the affected surface. All leaves with signs of violet disease, as well as dead leaf blades and cuttings are removed, preventing them from falling to the ground. To reduce the risk of infection during the cool season, it is imperative:
- avoid excessive humidity;
- refuse to spray outlets;
- water the violets correctly, avoiding stagnant moisture and condensation.
Of the chemicals for the treatment of outlets and their protection, quick and foundation are chosen.
Powdery mildew on Saintpaulias
One of the most common diseases caused by harmful fungi also affects uzambara violets. Outwardly, the manifestation of this disease of violets resembles flour scattered on leaf plates and corollas of flowers, and infection of Saintpaulias occurs with the help of fungal spores in the soil.
The most susceptible to the disease are violets, weakened after transplantation, recently faded specimens, young and, conversely, old, plants.
As a preventive measure, sockets are protected from temperature fluctuations, violets are watered correctly and top dressing is used. If the infection does occur, the Saintpaulia needs fungicide treatment.
Fusarium as a disease of violets
The most dangerous disease for violets first affects the roots of the plant, which rot and soften, and then the infection spreads through the vessels to the stem, petioles and leaf plates of the lower leaves. With a disease at this stage, most of the old foliage in the lower level withers, the stems and edges become watery, and then completely die off.
The rapid death of the plant is facilitated by its weakening after flowering, the lack of fertilizer for the violets, and also the temperature below 16 ° C.
The fight against fusarium is to urgently remove the diseased plant from the windowsill, which contains other violets. It is best to destroy the affected specimen along with the soil, and subject the pot to disinfection with copper sulfate or an available fungicide. As a preventive measure, they establish an irrigation regime, and also in this case, correctly water the violets with a phytosporin solution. This procedure is carried out monthly.
Late blight of Saintpaulias rosettes
Late blight on Saintpaulia plants appears in the form of brown, drying spots on the leaves. As the disease progresses on violets, such spots spread, the affected tissue undergoes necrosis, and the rosette withers. It is impossible to restore the elasticity of the foliage even after watering.
If the apical part of the rosette is intact, it can be cut off and rooting can be attempted by pretreating with an antifungal agent and removing any tissue affected by the disease. A healthy cut should have a light green tint. For rooting, you can take healthy leaves.
The rest of the rosette is destroyed, all violets adjacent to the diseased specimen are subjected to preventive treatment.
Bronze and leaf spot viruses
Diseases of a viral nature change the appearance of leaf plates, tissue supply and plant development. These diseases can be the reason why violets do not bloom at home, and then they stop developing altogether.
Bronze virus, for example, results in ugly discolored leaves. Such plants sometimes turn out to be unviable and are destroyed. And the pests found in apartments can spread the disease of violets. In this case, these are thrips.
Pests on plants of uzambar violets
Pests affecting Saintpaulia can cause serious harm to indoor crops, since both green parts of plants and roots fall into their sphere of interest. In addition, they spread the most famous violet diseases.
Mites at home become the most dangerous pests of indoor plants. On violets, cyclamen mites are especially common and harmful, the infection with which in the initial stages is practically invisible. Only when new leaves appear, it becomes obvious that the rosette is inhabited by microscopic insects, leading to the cessation of the growth of Saintpaulia, the refusal of the violet to bloom at home, crushing and rolling of the leaves in the center of the rosette.
The fight against the pest is carried out using phytoverm or other insecticides, after isolating the diseased plant.
No less insidious enemy of violets is nematode... From the soil, the worms penetrate the root system of plants and the vessels that feed the outlet. They suck up juices, poison the plant with toxins and disrupt tissue supply. As a result, the violet looks weakened, refuses to bloom, grows poorly. On the green part of the plant, nematode damage looks like a thickening of the stem, crushing and changing the shape of the foliage, and the mass formation of children.
At the same time, nodes and vesicular thickenings are clearly visible on the roots, where worm cysts develop.
It is reasonable to part with such a violet, but if you want to propagate a rare variety, in no case should you take leaves from the lower tiers, where nematodes may already live. The affected plant is destroyed along with the soil. The pallet, pot and pots are thoroughly disinfected.
Aphids are found most easily by sticky secretions on the foliage and by the insects themselves on the back of the leaves and on the petioles at their base. You can wash off the pest with soapy water, trying not to overmoisten the soil, as well as with Antitlin, phytoverm or tobacco dust.
Thrips that move easily from plant to plant are the most dangerous for the home-kept Saintpaulias. In addition, a pest that feeds on plant juices quickly multiplies and is able to transfer pathogens of all kinds of violet diseases to the sockets. You can destroy thrips with Aktara or another solution of a similar drug. During processing, the earthen lump is necessarily affected, and, in addition, the peduncles are cut off in order to deprive the pest of food - Saintpaulia pollen.
The presence of mealybugs produces white flakes on the leaves, stems and petioles where they join the stem. In the soil coma of the affected plant, whitish lumps are noticeable. These are the places of accumulation of worms that feed on plant juices. The infected violet withers quickly, the leaves become dull, yellowish.
If urgent measures are not taken, not only a sick violet may die, but also neighboring sockets may suffer. Treatment is carried out by watering violets with Mospilan or Regent, the wilted parts must be removed and destroyed.
Sciarids are well known to all indoor growers. Small black flies above the pots are also dangerous because they feed on Saintpaulias juices, and in the form of larvae can cause serious damage to the underground parts of plants.
The fight against the pest of saintpaulias consists in spilling the soil with a systemic insecticide, as well as establishing plant care. In this case, more than ever, proper watering of violets is important, since excess moisture in the soil contributes to the reproduction and activation of harmful insects.
Read also the article: streptocarpus care and cultivation from seeds!
Protective preventive measures against diseases of violets and their pests
You can reduce the risk of infection of uzambara violets with dangerous diseases of this culture and protect pets from attack by pests by adhering to simple safety rules and establishing prevention.
As experienced florists testify, the greatest danger to the collection is presented by new rosettes purchased in a greenhouse or store. Such plants are never placed next to existing violets until 3-4 weeks have passed. Such a quarantine is necessary to observe the violet and its acclimatization.
If the plant has become flowering, it is better to remove the peduncles. This will reduce the risk of infection with thrips. Before planting, be sure to disinfect not only the soil, but also the pots. From the first day, plants are provided with acceptable lighting, nutrition and watering conditions. We must not forget about the use and fertilization for violets, especially necessary after flowering, when the plant is depleted.
On this topic:violet how to care to bloom?
In my opinion, decay of the roots. Try cutting the violet back to healthy tissue if the stem is not rotten at all. Or cut a stronger leaf and root it.
Please tell me the name of the flower. Thank you in advance.
Hello! My violet has swirling leaves, some have light areas:
Most likely, ticks live inside the folded leaves, which suck the juices from them. All these leaves must be cut off, and what remains should be treated with Agravertine (several times). The leaves can also spin from an excess of nitrogen in the soil, so in both cases it is better to transplant the flower.
thank
What to do. thank
Photo to the previous comment
Unfortunately, the problem is not clearly visible in the photo. If there are live roots, remove all rotten roots and old soil, rinse in a solution of potassium permanganate and soak in a fungicide. Then plant in fresh soil. If the root system has died completely, it is better to cut off the head and root it - in this way the bush can be rejuvenated and prevent death.
I lost all violets, even those that bloomed profusely and young (I grow violets all my life I know how to look after) - I bought land in the store - "violet" and got all the diseases you write about (the ground froze on the balcony) all violets in the new land died and where I poured the earth is up to 200 pieces. You cannot buy land in the store !!!!! However, foreign varieties survived for me, in this land and standing on the same windowsill and even in one large pot, domestic varieties died, and the mini are alive and blooming (for example, Secci Sister). Why do you think?
Growths similar to sesame seeds have formed on the roots, although the bush itself looks normal but grows slowly. What about him? thank
The growths on the roots of violets is a nematode, one of the results of the disease is slow growth. It is very difficult to cure a flower, drugs are practically powerless here. It is better to look for a healthy leaf and root it, but be sure to keep it separately in quarantine until you are sure that the new violet is healthy. Otherwise everyone will get sick.
What with her? thank
I would remove all the peduncles so that the violet does not waste energy on them, but builds up a lush rosette of leaves.Then it does not hurt to check the roots for decay, and change the soil, simultaneously treating the flower with a fungicide. A couple of weeks after transplanting, start feeding with a compound fertilizer to build deciduous mass.
Fuzzy photo, growth point is not visible. If the buds do not open brownish, then this is a mite. I would cut off the peduncles and lateral leaves, processed with phytoverm. and then I checked the roots and changed the soil to a looser one. It is not clear if the lateral leaves are watery? If the growing point is the same, I doubt that the plant can be saved. Isolate the violet.
Please tell me what's wrong with my violet
It looks like powdery mildew. Treat the violet twice with a week break with Fundazol or Topaz (spray + water). Until he recovers, isolate from other flowers. From folk remedies, you can try garlic infusion or soap with the addition of copper sulfate to the last. The treatment scheme is the same.
Help please, we have gone through the winter well, but now the problems have begun. In some, the tips begin to dry, then the whole leaf. The other dries up from the trunk. The kids got accustomed so well, and now they are starting to die. help me please
This one is from the trunk
Here
Maybe it's just sunburn? Or look for a tick. Treatment with Fitoverm helps from it.
First photo. Check the roots, replace the soil with loose. Probably rotting of the violet leg and re-root is necessary.
Second photo. Replace soil and adjust watering.
Hello. I checked the trunk of the first one today, it's rotten. It's a shame! I loved her so much for the lush bloom. I took the leaves from her today, I hope they are healthy and children will turn out. And the second was just planted in a new land, three weeks ago. The land was bought by the author's, special
Tell me, what's wrong with my violet? Dry spots appeared on flowers after transplanting. Stands on the west window
It looks like burns. Maybe there were drops of water on the leaves and flowers, and such spots turned out under the sun. Move to another window and see if they grow further.
In my opinion this is a burn, watch the new buds.
What's with my violets? In the photo, one violet grew normally, and then folded the leaves and there is already a memyat. The second is already growing with this and the leaves. These are kids from one sheet
Photo 1
Violet leaves begin to curl downward from excess moisture or fertilizer in the soil. Otherwise, look for a mite on the flowers - this phenomenon is typical for this pest. Then you need to transplant the violets into a new substrate and treat them with special preparations against pests.
Thank. I treated it from the tick and changed the soil, but the violet does not respond to my concern for a month
Good afternoon, please tell me what is happening with the violet and how to help. It blooms for the first time.
It looks like a burn. Try shifting away from direct light or shading to keep the sun out of the leaves, and watch to see if the spots grow further. If the rearrangement does not help, you will have to treat the violet with a fungicide.
Good afternoon. Tell me, please, what about the violets?
On all violets (they are about a year old) and even on a young 4 month old, are there such stripes along the contour of the leaf, as in the photo? I noticed that they appear when the leaves mature.
It seems to me that this is how spontaneous variegation manifests itself, because the bush is absolutely healthy at first glance, and the spots are not rotting and not in the form of a plaque. And variegation is an unpredictable phenomenon, it can be both on the whole bush, and on several leaves, then appear, then disappear.
Thank you for your opinion. You are right, the bush is healthy, I think if there were any pests or infections, then the violets would have already disappeared or at least somehow it manifested itself
In my opinion, these are draft spots.
Please tell me what about peperomia? Growing well, leaves do not fall, has already reached a good size? What can it be? (I attach a photo) Maybe the plant needs to be updated? It is already 3.5 years old
And you did not notice insects, maybe they ate the leaves? If there is no one, then, most likely, this is the result of overfilling or cold. Despite the love for moisture, peperomia is very sensitive to its excess, and often reacts with the appearance of spots. Adjust watering. If you want, you can treat it with a fungicide just in case for prevention.
Olga, thank you) I didn't overfill, no insects are visible, just in case I will treat it with a fungicide.
Hello!
I have been dealing with violets for a long time. Never had a problem. I even somehow considered them an unpretentious flower, if you follow a few simple rules. But here I ran into something incomprehensible. The violet is large, beautiful, but there are always few buds. This is what happens to them. There were still leaves in the center. I cut them off. I think, maybe the buds from under them can not get out and break. Or is the problem something else?
And in my opinion, there are signs of rot on the peduncles - those brown spots over there. Check the roots, maybe not everything is in order there either. Treat with fungicide and transplant into fresh soil despite blooming.
No, she always blooms like that. Brown is just the place of peduncle fractures. The photo shows that I cut off several leaves. The leaves were young, very strong, not fully unfolded. And since the buds grow faster, then they cannot crawl out from under these leaves and break. Something like that. Not sure how to fix this. This time I came up with the idea of removing the leaves altogether, so as not to interfere with flowering. Maybe this variety has such a feature? Or am I substandard?
Additional photo
The violet bloomed for the first time after transplanting very well, now at the point of growth the small leaves have curled up and do not grow. What about the violet?
This tick started up. Treat with fungicides.
Please tell me what's wrong with the violet. I bought it 1.5 months ago, and recently some kind of raid appeared or that I cannot understand. There were also leaves, but I send them and they are gone. But the flowers wither very quickly in a few days and are covered with some kind of white bloom. Spots appeared on the leaves. There are no insects on earth.
It looks like powdery mildew. Treat with fungicide. It is advisable to replace the earth with a pot or at least disinfect the flowerpot.
Here's another photo
Good day! Almost all the violets died. Please tell me if there is a chance and what to do?
I also have the edges of the leaves in the same condition. I cut the roots and put them in the water.
If you are about to root this leaf, then something I do not like the tip of the petiole at the cut. In my opinion, he has already begun to rot. Try cutting a little more and treating with a growth promoter. Although the leaf is already sick, it may not take root.
There is no one sick leaf, there is no way to root, I mean the violet itself can be saved if you notice such one or two leaves at the time ..
Anyway, you can try. If the roots are still alive, you can trim off the affected leaves and treat the violet with a fungicide.
Please tell me what's wrong with my violet
These are definitely not sunburns. If there are no signs of decay, this may be a manifestation of variegation in violets.
Hello! Tell me what's wrong with the violet. They gave it on March 8, the flowers were immediately like that, with rust, they transplanted into another soil, she thought she was overfed for distillation, but then she picked up the buds again and again this rust, right in the buds already. The rest of the violets are more or less healthy, there is no such thing. I'm afraid this is some kind of incurable virus
Most likely, this is rust. The violet must be separated from other flowers so that they do not get sick. If the bush has been sick for a long time and the lesions are visible on flowers and leaves, it will be difficult to save. You can try to treat with Fitosporin-M or Topaz, suddenly it will survive.
Thank! But how do you save? Just update with leafy cuttings to keep this variety in the collection?
You can, of course, with leaves, but you need to choose only healthy ones.
Thanks, namesake!
Maybe these are thrips, the buds are very small ... ..
Hello. Tell me what to do. Recently I saw clear white spots on the leaves and flowers on some violets, I realized that powdery mildew. I treated it with a solution of soap and soda, write with help, burned all the leaves, over time, the burns turned brown spots. After that, I sprayed and watered with phytosporin, the dew is no longer visible. But now on some violets on the central young leaves, holes appeared sharply, somewhere through. Recently, one more violet appeared, what do you advise to do? can I panic in vain? Violets bloom, do not look sick
Holes can gnaw pests. Inspect the bush well, especially the back of the leaves, for small insects. And the most effective way is to change the soil, because pests can live there. You can also treat it by changing the fungicide.
Perhaps it is burns of droplets of water and sun. Observe what new leaves will be
Hello! Tell me, is it possible to transplant / reload a blooming violet?
Can I plant 2 or more plants in 1 pot?
How to distinguish rotten roots from healthy ones, rotten brown ones?
During flowering, it is not advisable to touch all indoor plants, unless they get sick or insects start, otherwise they can shed their buds. It is better to plant in separate pots - violets are very sensitive to moisture. For 2-3 violets and the flowerpot will be more spacious, and there is a risk of flooding the flowers in it, because the soil will dry out for a long time. With respect to the roots, the healthy ones will be elastic, pink-brown. Rotten ones are darker and softer to the touch, or light, watery. Most often they do not exist at all - they fall off right in the ground.
Hello again! Look what kind of violets I have, they have such a problem all their lives, they bloom constantly and this kind of mold or mushrooms are also always on the soil (in photo 5, yellowish). In photo 4, the leaves look completely black, in fact they are dark brown. Maybe I water it incorrectly, but the water does not get on the leaves, maybe I don't really do it on the stems, so I decided to bring it back to normal. There are drugs glyocladin, fitoverm, aktara. Black midges fly, spilled a week ago, while they are still flying.
Looks like all your violets are suffering from sunburn. In addition, violets No. 3 and 4 are slowly rotting. Number 1 is very extended, and plaque on the soil of number 5 can be not only fungal, but also from the quality of the water. I would transplant them all into fresh soil, with a thorough inspection of the root and treatment with a fungicide. Rotting specimens are best treated with Glyocladin. Protect the leaves from direct rays and it is better to water through the pallet so that the flowers do not rot. And yet - it is better to treat pests from pests twice, with a break of two weeks.
Thank you very much for your answer! Is glyocladin also a fungicide? About the transplant of flowering violets, therefore, I asked above, because I wanted to transplant them, and they constantly bloom, I realized that in emergency cases this can be done. They stand on the windowsill, so it is quite possible, as you wrote, sunburn. Look at the photo, if I cut this violet like this (marked with a yellow line), then it will be fine (put it in water with a root), otherwise its stem is not beautiful, because I tear off the lower leaves, because they turn brown.
Yes, Glyocladin is also a fungicide, but biological, intended for the prevention and destruction of putrefactive root diseases. Concerning violets, it is in this way, having taken off the head, that they can be rejuvenated. So cut it off.
Olga, thank you very much for your answers!
2nd photo
photo 3
photo 4
photo 5 is such a mold or mildew.
Good day. Can you please tell me why the middle of the violets is thickening? Almost on many violets, after and during flowering, the middle begins to thicken, it is very difficult for the flower to get out from under the leaves. Three-time treatment with phytoverm, actofit and other tick remedies does not help. I tried to transplant it into a new soil, cutting off all the lower leaves and putting it in a greenhouse, also did not give a result. Tell me how to help violets.
The most common cause of thickening of the center of the rosette in violets is the cyclamen mite. If treatment with drugs and transplantation did not give anything, one thing remains - the flower is uncomfortable. The leaves in the center of the violet become small and curl when hot, dry and a lot of light. Also, the water may not fit (too hard).
What about the violet? The leaves first soften and then wither. What's wrong with her and how to treat?
Most likely, it is late blight. The disease is aggressive, rapidly spreading throughout the plant, including the root system. Unfortunately, it will hardly be possible to save. If at the very beginning, when only one leaf wilted, you could try to remove it and spill it with Fitosporin. But not the fact that it would help. And so it remains only to look for the surviving healthy leaf and root it in order to preserve the variety.
Hello! She took off the head of the violets, put them in cups of water with a root, put the cups in a transparent container, but can it be closed with an opaque lid or should it be transparent? And you will have to open it every day or every other day and add a little water to the glasses, if it evaporates, can you?
Violets are placed in a greenhouse (container) in order to maintain optimal temperature and humidity, and not to hide them from light. The lid should be transparent. It is better to root in the substrate - violets often rot in water. In the greenhouse, the flower spends 2 weeks, during which time the cover must be removed daily for 15-20 minutes for airing.
And I read on the Internet and watched a video that it is in the summer that they do not immediately root into the ground, but first put it in the water, is that not so?
I didn’t say that you cannot root in water. It's just that my violets most often rot in water, because the stalk is quite juicy. You can add moss, but not much. The percentage depends on the total composition of the mixture. For example, if you have 4 parts of peat soil, then take only 1 part of moss. As for boiling water, then live sphagnum is not treated with anything so as not to kill it, but dry - you can steam it.
Olga, thanks for the answers! I added a little moss (dry. Scalded with boiling water), probably even less than 1/4, and planted it in the ground. I made a transparent cover from a film, I ventilate each. day. Is watering in the greenhouse normal or do not water for 2 weeks?
It is impossible without watering at all, just watch that the earth does not dry out completely and moisten it periodically.
Is it worth adding sphagnum to the soil and about how much in%, is it enough to pour boiling water over the purchased sphagnum?
Good day! Tell me, I have powdery mildew on my violets (I looked at your descriptions). On flowers and leaves, specks are white, like flour or mold. There is no photo now. I put them on the other window sill. But to some extent they were together with the main collection. I understood them, it is necessary to process it with topaz 2 times. Do the rest of the violets need to be sprayed with something for prevention or not? There are blooming and very little kids. Thank.
Yes, processing is simply necessary.
hello. tell me what about my violets. these spots appear and disappear. the leaves are cruel and beautiful
Please tell me what is the name of the variety of this violet
The color of the leaves is very similar to the Blue Fog variety.
Please tell me what's wrong with our violet. White bloom on leaves and in the middle of the outlet, feels like cotton wool. Flowers were also blotted, they were removed. The lower leaves are soft, lifeless, just like a rag. And there are also wounds on the leaves, as from burns, only with the feeling that they have been eaten. And the flower was also wobbling. Young violet, purchased in May, planted in early June.
This is powdery mildew. It is necessary to wash the leaves with a solution of laundry soap (yellow) and soda. Replace soil. Treat the bush with Topaz twice with a week break. Cut off all the missing leaves.
Good day. Tell me, what's wrong with my violet and how can I save it? It was presented on the 8th of March, it has been blooming for the 6th month already, everything was superb, but I was leaving and a neighbor took care of the violet. The edges of the leaves began to dry at her, the cutting of the leaves, like the leaves themselves, are of a juicy green color with shine. How can the situation be corrected? Thank.
Most likely it was transfused. Change the substrate, if you notice rotten roots during transplanting - treat with a fungicide.
This is how my violet looks like ((