Planting and caring for cherries
Sweet cherry grows up to 10 m tall. Unlike cherries, low-growing varieties of sweet cherries have not yet been bred. Therefore, the area of the site for planting should be at least 5 m2... The tree needs cross-pollination, which means that you need to plant different varieties of cherries at a short distance from each other. It is worth choosing zoned varieties, so the likelihood that the seedling will take root will be higher.
Choosing a cherry variety
To date, more than 4000 varieties of sweet cherries have been bred. All of them can be divided into two large groups - "Bigarro" and "Gini".
The varieties of the Bigarro group bear fruit abundantly. Their berries are large, with dense pulp and skin. These varieties are of medium or late ripening, their fruits are used both fresh and for canning.
Varieties of the "Gini" group - early ripening. This group includes varieties of yellow cherries. The pulp of the Gini group is sweeter than that of the Bigarro group. Their skin is toky, so they are suitable for consumption only fresh.
Choosing a landing site
Cherries loves a sunny place protected from the wind. Planting a tree in light and heavy loams is not recommended. The best soil for planting cherries is sandy loam. Sweet cherries take root well on peat soil. If there are no trees of other varieties of this culture near the cherry, then it is worth choosing a place near the plum or cherry. In such a place, cherries are pollinated a little worse, but the harvest will still be plentiful.
Planting cherries
It is better to plant annual or biennial plants. All fruit trees are grown on wild stock. In young trees, the grafting is better visible, and the root system of such a plant is fibrous, so the tree will better tolerate planting and take root in a new place. When planting, it is very important not to bury the graft in the soil, it is raised above ground level by 1/8 of the height of the seedling. If the annual tree is 80 cm high, then the graft is raised by 10 cm.
After planting, one or two buckets of water are poured under the seedling. The trunk circle must be mulched. Cherry does not tolerate stagnant moisture, so do not make a depression near the trunk.
If you are planting container plants, then the planting hole should be 20 cm deeper and wider than the earthen ball. Next, the planting hole must be covered with fertile soil and one or two buckets of compost or cow humus must be added to the soil. Mineral fertilizers should not be applied to the soil, since the cherry will grow too quickly, its shoots will not have time to ripen before the cold weather and will freeze.
In the northern regions, it is better to refrain from planting in autumn; planting a tree is desirable in spring.
Last year I tried to transplant wild cherries (1-2 years) from the forest belt at home. The leaves have already blossomed, there was practically no root, they did not take root. Now I pulled out this young growth with roots, and even with the leaves already loose, they, in principle, have taken root. In some of the wild seedlings, some of the leaves died - so I removed them manually. In others, the leaves are somewhat faded. But in principle, they already seem to grow for about three weeks - during this time, the root system should already be formed in a new place. How likely is this young growth to take root in my garden? I think the presence of leaves, their green and less-healthier state should be an indicator? What can be done to help the complete engraftment of young cherries in a new place? And the question is also of interest - will these cherries be wild, without preserving the properties and varieties of the mother tree?
Without vaccination, you will also grow a wild cherry, with small berries. To get a plentiful and large harvest, cherries must be grafted.But if you graft a stalk with a good varietal cherry on this young seedling, you can get a tree with high frost and drought-resistant properties. Wildlife usually winters much better than varietal crops. As for the rooting of the seedling, if the root system has not been damaged, everything should go well, despite the presence of blossoming leaves. You can help the tree by adding nitrogen-containing fertilizers during watering so that the cherries grow.
Yes, bad! It is also bad that after actually two weeks of cold rains, the leaves faded even more, therefore it is difficult to assume that
they will last at least a month, or even a couple of weeks, not like the whole summer. And last year I read that, in fact, thanks to the leaves, even a young tree feeds on carbon dioxide - no way!
Regarding the root system - so I "dug up" the earth a little, when digging, then pulled out with a part of the root (10-30 cm), but probably not completely. And where there was a large root and then chopped off ... at home, so that it could fit into the hole.
And by the way - these seedlings come from the sweet cherries of the road, which give rather small, and even very bitter fruits on many trees, therefore it is not clear to me whether these are cultivated varieties, or these are some kind of semi-cultivated varieties - maybe they will not work at all. , and some properties of mother cherries will be transferred. But it is obvious that all the cherries along the road are old (30-40 years old), probably from the time of the emergence of forest plantations - so there are no young growth there. But I did it for the sake of experiment.