Problems in growing water violets: single peduncle and long leaves
Good time of the day! My question is about the water violet. Its location is on the east window. It gives only 1-2 peduncles and does not form "caps" of peduncles. How to do it? It has very long petioles of the lower leaves. Is it correct? Is it necessary to remove them and is there a need to thin out the leaves of the 2-3 order? Thanks for the advice!Violet Water belongs to terry varieties, has very large flowers with ruffles. The coloring is rather unusual - the colors gradually merge into each other.
Features of flowering violets water
From the time of the formation of the peduncle with buds to their complete blooming, a lot of time passes. Flowering is delayed for a month, or even longer, unlike other varieties, in which the inflorescences bloom immediately. As a typical representative of terry violets, the Water One shows all its beauty after the third flowering.
Since the author did not indicate the age of the plant, it can be assumed that a single peduncle is one of the first flowering, and over time the violet will open in full force.
Reasons for pulling leaves
The long stalks of the leaves and peduncles may be due to the varietal affiliation of the violet. Other reasons for pulling are:
- Lack of lighting... The pot must be rearranged to a more illuminated place or artificial lighting must be installed.
- Too high temperature... Move the violet to another room.
The author should carefully examine the plant and pay attention to the outlet. Long petioles and a loose rosette indicate an excess of moisture in the pot. You need to let the soil dry out and adjust the watering. Unfortunately, the question does not indicate how it is done. Violets respond best to wick irrigation... With the correct choice of the wick thickness (depending on the volume of the pot), the flower will itself "drink" the required amount of water.
Or not to pick the leaves of the violet?
If an adult violet has a lot of leaves, but there are few peduncles, and their number does not increase with the next flowering, the problem may be caused by excess nitrogen in the soil. The plant actively grows the leafy cap to the detriment of flowering. In this case, in the dressing, you should take a break for a month and a half, and then apply phosphorus fertilizer. The lower layer of leaves can be cut off.
The place of the cut of the petiole must be sprinkled with activated carbon.
Violet leaves can be torn off:
- if they are damaged, dry or deformed;
- if the first leaves do not look like they are characteristic of a certain variety;
- to give the rosette a symmetrical appearance (this also applies to second-order leaves).
It should be borne in mind that after pruning the violet will take time to adapt and there will be no flowering for the next 5 months.